Glues a sticky subject
I use a variety of glues in making my landing nets, and I would like to pass on my thoughts and understanding of this subject to you.
First I would like to talk about glues in general. I like to separate glues by their primary property.
A. Reactive or catalyzed glues. This group includes the epoxy resins and resorcinol glues (These glues typically are a two part glue with a resin and harder.) The glue may react with the natural lipophilic resins, phenols (natural alcohols) or saccharides (complex sugars) in the material glued to form their bond. In some cases such as the epoxies, they may rely mainly mechanical adhesion with the microscopic surface imperfections.
This glue does require mixing with water before use and can not be stored in a mixed state. It has a couple of disadvantages. Historically it was formulated with excess formaldehyde. This caused it to give off the excess formaldehyde when it was mixed and used. In the current formulation this is much better controlled. The current product meets national and California standards for release of formaldehyde. Good news, well sort of. It means that the chemistry of the product has changed. There is a recommended minimum pot time of 15 minutes. ?What? This means you should let the glue sit for 15 minutes before you use it, to allow for the glue to start catalyzing. The glue has a working time of 30 minutes ( time from application to final clamping) and a pot time of about 2 hours.
I have had students who report problems with adhesion. I have not had problems with this but I have some insight. The product you receive is really a two part product. The resin and catalyst are mixed in the same container, along with a wood dust filler. Typically this is sold in a plastic container. Plastic containers ARE NOT moisture proof. Most manufactures suggest a 1 year shelf life, when stored until normal conditions. Most of the glue I have bought over the years has been okay. When Dapp stopped making this product there was some post date product being sold on the internet. I am now buying this glue as Pro-glue. (Check Joe-woodworker.com or Vac-u-clamp.com ) (Woodcraft carries this glue but in 5 gallon buckets, go figure.) Cascamite is another brand available on Amazon. It comes in a 220 gram tub. Given that it takes about 3.5 oz or 100 grams to glue a net, it is a pricey product.
I have not had adhesion problems, EXCEPT once early in my experience. I glued up a very a beautiful curly maple net. The glue seemed a little crumbly in the plastic container, but I broke up the chunks and mixture it with water. So good so far. Glue up seemed okay and it dried into a nice powder as the net fell completely apart. (A similar event happened to a friend who let the net freeze in his shop before the glue had dried.) I now store the glue in GLASS jars to avoid atmospheric moisture activating the glue. AND would NOT use the powdered glue if it has any caking (dry lumps of glue powder).
This type of glue is still used extensively in the veneer plywood industry, where they use radio frequency to set this glue. (micro wave) As I have read the industrial literature about this glue one important point, that has not been pointed out in the general information, is that this glue is best “dried” / “set” in a 110-140 degree environment. One of my students tried this glue and let it set in his 50 degree shop. The whole event was a mess. I use a “hot box” (a shop made box with old fashion light bulbs for heat) to cure the glue. I have also used a small electric space heater in a bathroom for larger projects.
Two last insights about this glue. When you mix it, put the powder in a bowl (I use one hemisphere of cheap rubber ball and a silicon spatula) Put in a SMALL amount of water, mix that into a paste then keep mixing and adding water until you have the right consistency for the batch. Let it set for 15 minutes, (you may need to add more water before using).
I wear rubber gloves when gluing up a net, to protect my hands. When I need to clean up the glue from my hands, I use a mixture of white vinegar (1/3) and Joy dish washing detergent (2/3). (This glue is made by adding acid to urea, the acid in the vinegar and the ammonia in the detergent upset the chemistry of the glue and make clean up much easier.) (Dawn detergent doesn’t seem to work).
]]>
Those techniques have undergone further refinement and I would like to repay his kindness by sharing them with you. This method uses a particle board form cut to the shape of the landing net hoop. Inner tube tire is cut into long 1 inch wide strips. The rubber strips are used to clamp the four glue covered 1/8 thick wood laminates onto the mold and handle inset. After 24 hours the frame is unwrapped from the form and the particle board mold removed. The net frame is now ready for final shaping and finishing. Detailed step by step instructions are available on my DVD.
My one suggestion to the beginning net maker is to buy the net bag before you make your net frame. It is easier to vary the size of the hoop before you start than to find a net bag to fit the hoop after you have invested all your time and materials.
The wood strips, handle inset and net mold are readied.
Rubber strips cut and ready to use.
The wood strips are glued and ready to be clamped.
Starting to wrap the net.
Net frame wrapped, now gluing the handle.
Starting the final wraps on the frame and handle.
The finished glue up.
]]>No one style of landing net can cover all situations encountered with fishing. A net that can handle a 36 inch salmon, won't work very well climbing up a small steep mountain stream. The appropriate size net should handle a fish with the least chance of injury and give the best frame for a picture. When in doubt I would suggest a landing net with a traditional medium sized hoop, about 34-36 inches in circumference.
A small Tenkara or brook trout net, with a hoop circumference of about 25-32 inches, is best reserved for small tight waters, where a 12 inch fish is a trophy.
My medium size landing net with a hoop between 34 to 36 inches in circumference or about 12 x 9 inches, is a good choice for general use as a fly fishing net. This size will handle fish up to 20 inches easily. (My personal best is 26 inches)
If you fish mainly larger waters and chasing larger fish is in your blood, a larger sized hoop is best. I make big fish carry nets with 42, 45 and 52 inch circumference frames. (My personal best is 30 inches).
Picking a handle length again is a personal choice. By far the most popular handle length is 8-10 inches, mainly because of the comfort while carrying the net on ones back. There are special situations where a slightly shorter or longer net handle is best. When wading is difficult because of age or because of the nature of the river, a longer handle may be an advantage. Similarly in very tight cover, with lots of bush and fallen timber the shorter handle may be more convenient.
Selecting the net bag again is a personal choice. I offer nets with both the soft nylon net bags and "rubber" net bags. I also fished with both. There is very limited scientific data supporting which bag is less traumatic to the fish. I know there are many fishermen who are concerned about the hook(s) getting caught in the nylon net bags. I find that it isn't a problem if I have effectively debarbed the hook(s). I do find it is easier to carry a net with a soft nylon net bag. Most important to me, l find the net looks nicer with the soft nylon bag when displayed. Also your pictures will look nicer with the black bag.
]]>You may note the wait times are a little longer and there a fewer nets on the website. I will post some of my fishing pictures and I hope some of yours.
]]>I recently returned from a vacation, fishing several beautiful rivers and meeting some wonderful people. While on the trip I had time to reflect. As I talked about my shop and my net building I saw patterns in my behavior. My wife says; I have a Compulsive Wood Disorder, as I can't walk by a pile of boards with out looking for a piece of wood to take home. As usual she is right....and I am now in the phase of acceptance. I now realize life doesn't come out even. There will always be wood in the wood rack, rods and rivers unfished and friends you didn't see enough. So lighten up, relax and enjoy the chaos of your life. A full life doesn't come out even.
]]>First I have found very little scientific information regarding net bag selection. There are studies* that have shown a decrease in fish mortality when using barbless hooks, there is also information that soft fabric or rubber net bags cause less injury than the hard nylon knotted net bags. Other studies have demonstrated lower fish mortality when using a landing net with a soft bag, rather than "bank landing" a fish on a gravel or grass surface. I would also remark that the aquarium fish industry are still commonly using the soft nylon net bags to handle fish that are often valued in the hundreds of dollars. Given the above information, here are my thoughts...
*Catch-and-release angling: A review with guidelines for the proper fish handling practices, S.J.Casselman, Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources, July 2005,
This is a nice review of multiple studies regarding fish mortality from multiple factors.
I stock several styles of landing net bags including traditional knotted bags of soft nylon, as well as the more modern catch and release bags of either soft woven nylon or "rubber". For a landing net that is mainly for display, a traditional bag looks very handsome. The black woven nylon is very "fish friendly" and looks good when hung on the wall as well.
I personally find the "rubber" bags less attractive and some what cumbersome to carry. I find they work well in the larger hoops and I have them available for nets starting with a hoop of 42 inches circumference.
]]>
]]>
Occasionally there seems to be a brand that survives long enough that I would be remiss in not relating this to the world or the two or three people that may read this blog. I have used ear muffs in my shop almost continuously since I started making nets 25 years ago. I enjoy listening to radio as I work, and have found that most "Work-muff-radios" last about 1-2 years before they would no longer provide a reliable signal. Enter my latest purchase that is now 3 ( now 5) years old and still providing steady service. Based on this highly unscientific sampling, the Howard Leight brand by Honeywell have been a real hit in my shop.... a real 5 star product.
]]>